Mary Quant

Submitted by on Sep 21, 2015

Mary Quant

Mary Quant. The most “marketplace” woman

By the time she was born English designer Mary Quant, physicists have to work hard to create a quantum field theory – the theory of relativistic quantum physical systems with an infinite number of degrees of freedom. Perhaps precisely because of its name consonance Quantum subtly felt the degree of freedom of the physical world. But as a woman, not a physicist Niels Bohr, to apply them to any woman interested in the field – the fashion industry.

Author: Elena Travin

Change of Scenery

has ended for all the terrible Second World War. He returned to civilian life many men who are bored to death uniforms. And then there’s the eternal girlfriend in a tweed jacket, which they climbed in, taking off his military clothes. I wanted to joy, lightness and airiness. All of this suggested the style of Christian Dior “New Look”, tightening the wasp waist and skirt whipping crinolines. Before the Soviet Union a new fashion reached a snail’s pace in the mid-50’s and has been demonstrated in “Carnival Night” by Eldar Ryazanov.

However, by this time in Paris after a long break opened House of Chanel, and the ladies again started buying suits with piping and handbags on a chain. This does not preclude a looser clothes for sports and recreation. But there is still dominated by the image of a mature woman, which, although not alien to anything human, but. all the time.

On the covers of glossy magazines looking housewife, proud of her husband’s career, or “business woman”, proud of his own career. Outwardly, they differed little. Powerful chest postwar beauties such as Marilyn Monroe or Gina Lollobrigida. hypnotized men mother complex, which is very young torn from his mother and went to war. In fashion were “mommy”, nursing his overgrown-husbands, sons or fellow workers.

The American psychology even originated the term “mamizm” that characterizes such relationships of adoration and eternal childhood man. But with the change of generations mother complex is gone. A new image of women – Lolita, girlfriend, neighbor girls, at the same time incredibly sexy and Impatiens. It was the generation of Mary Quant style. And how would she pushed the sixth (the literal translation of her name from the English) from the old notions of fashion and set off on an independent voyage.

Girl from Chelsea

Mary Quant (Quant) was born February 11, 1934 in Kent. Grandfathers were miners in Wales. Mother and father “beat out into the world”, after graduating with honors from the University of Cardiff. They both became school teachers and would like to daughter went in their footsteps, you have become a “pudding from the same molds”.

But Mary did not want to be pudding and began a protracted war against the parents. In combat operations he helped her to her new friend – Alexander Plunket. They met in college, where Mary came on a compromise agreement with the parents. At the end she had to get a diploma teacher. But not just a teacher, and a teacher of drawing.

House of the worst sin is idleness. In this sense, Plunkett was a notorious sinner. He lay in bed until four o’clock in the afternoon, coming up with how to have fun, and then went to wander through a jazz club. At the same time he was dressed very stylish: shirt instead – the upper part of the parent pajamas instead of trousers – also something out, do not reach boots. Apologies him only that he was a relative of the Duke of Bedford.

Parents hated Mary Plunkett before dating, fearing its influence on her daughter. And, in general, well done. Do well-intentioned teachers hair stood on end would be, if they knew about the antics of their little girl and her boyfriend. Sometimes kids got into the train scene where Alexander played “dead in the car.”Mary laughed like crazy, watching the reaction of passengers when the train after the next leap”corpse” rolled on the floor and knocked down crazed people.

Sometimes Plunket planted Mary in a wheelchair his mom, and everyone said: “The poor creature. So young. Such a tragedy.” At the same time, enjoying the attention, the poor creature jumps out of his chair and ran off into the distance.

One day, going to an expensive restaurant, the couple discovered that much overexerted Alexander, finding and putting on his jacket. But due to the surge he forgot to put on a shirt. The solution was found in an instant. Young genius painted buttons and collar directly on his chest and proudly marched into the room.

The crowning of their work “early” period can be regarded as the scene of the abduction. Mary, dressed as a well-bred girl, walked toward the South Kensington station (there was always a lot of people). Next to her car pulled up, driven by Alexander sat, and together with another girlfriend in costume and make-up villains they began to push Mary in the car.

The crowd took an active part in the apprehension of criminals. Mary remembered for a lifetime gentleman in a bowler hat, which blocked the path of the car, hit the umbrella in the windshield and yelled that the murder (he meant his own) – a more serious crime than kidnapping.

They were saved only by the fact that at the sound of a police siren crowd leaned toward Alexander and taxied out of the encirclement. Three sessions in a row, they were in some theater on the outskirts, but by 11 pm, Mary, as always, was home. And there was still the same unto the boredom: how many books should be studied in order to pass the exam and get another degree – cherished shaped as letters after their names on business cards.

It is more comfortable lives of girls from London’s Chelsea – a fun, without any thoughts of boring and “tomorrow”. On this life, by the way, singing Liza Minnelli in “Cabaret”.

Remember, girlfriend named Elsie from Chelsea, which all fun and fun, and then, though she died, but how magnificent was the corpse? So girls from Chelsea in the thirties were particularly carefree. What to say about the fifties or sixties. But there was one that differed from the rest of Mary’s girls from Chelsea. It has become a very good money.

Two sbrendivshie pajamas

After a while Mary College invented the cap for one designer. Then she sewed hats and Plunkett gave them up for sale (by the way, beginning with the hats and Chanel).

Then they decided to open a night club in Chelsea. But one day, when I started breaking out of internal partitions in the house, they found the entrance a mob waving umbrellas and shouting something about the vandalism and beautiful arched windows. It turned out that restructuring is necessary to permit the Board of Architects of London, which, of course, was not.

Without thinking twice, a failed nightclub remade into a restaurant and a boutique on the ground floor. As for restaurants, things went well it right. Alexander lured somewhere magnificent chef and all his many noble relatives remained quite happy with this: “At Alexander fed perfectly.” On the first boutique was worse. The idea was original, but limped execution.

In the morning until the evening, Mary and Alexander went on the showrooms, where he studied samples of goods. Goods needed complex – youth clothing and accessories, which have not yet come up with any one designer. By veshchichki, then here and there, they gained a certain amount of rock and roll clothes, which was the youth to cheer. But soon the supply dried up, and the new was not to buy.

Mary began to invent and to sew clothes herself at night. During the day it was sold, and in the evening, Mary fled to Harrods department store and the money to buy fabric and butt. Then they hired several masters. Then in 1955, they decided to celebrate the opening of the boutique, called “Bazaar”. But the newspapers did not take them seriously, and sent to the opening of the senior assistant junior reporters. Only one famous magazine “Harper (s Bazaar” noticed two crazy pajamas, whose image adorned the editorial.

With these pizhamok all started. Incidentally, the pajamas were next, after caps, stepping and Chanel. They were intended to showcase themselves while in the shelter (there was the First World War).

Like Chanel, Quantum did not stop hats and pajamas. Like Chanel, she just came up with new clothes for the people that they were ready to wear. It introduced a new style – the style of life and – “Chelsey Look”.

“Bazaar” life

Mary Quant has repeatedly admitted that she was lucky to be born in the right place at the right time, when the “something in the air wearing, came to a boiling point.”Almost simultaneously, there was a need for a special teen clothing, pop records, express bars, discos and jazz clubs. It was a time of hippies,”The Beatles”, and free love. This was the first flight into space.

Clothing has become a necessity not only for the young in order to warm up, but to oppose the older generation. Once the clothes showed the social status of women. But in the ’60s it was not fashionable to be a snob. They began to wear the same clothes daughter dukes, doctors and dockworkers. Social differences belong to the past, to the fore the relationship between fathers and children.

Moreover, clothing has become international. The same things were in Britain, Europe and America. At the same time Mary Quant said she did not want to see their clothes uniforms. Clothing should only emphasize personality: a woman wears clothes, not the clothes a woman.

Throughout the Mary Quant showed a new approach. Instead, tailors dummies on a tripod in the window of her “Bazaar”wax human figures appeared with beautiful faces, hairstyles, in natural poses. These dummies cost fabulous money, but they have attracted attention. In other shops came with a clear objective to buy their own clothes, one could stand in front of a showcase, getting used to what they see and then tell everyone what a curious place – the”Bazaar”.

“Dressed”is usually a showcase on Saturday night, and the morning of the first passers-by can appreciate another”trick”owners. That’s all the space filled milk bottles with a small note”Gone fishing.” That mannequin was walking like a dog, a giant lobster, which on the eve of cleaned and gutted by the entire staff.

In his “Bazaar” Mary has used one American novelty, to which have not yet reached the British – marking size.

Usually, when a wealthy lady walked into the store and sat in a chair in front of her defile a string of models in dresses offered. Dame had only to point a finger at your favorite model. And as a model, as befits a decent boutique existed in a single instance, the required adjustment.

Mary did not have a single copy and was not fit. Each product had height, bust and waist. In good weather, the clothes were sold right at the entrance to the store. Hire a stunningly beautiful girls who were walking, carrying the advertisement: “Come in”Bazaar.”The unprecedented discounts”.

The store did not have working hours worked until the last visitor. And people liked it. Sometimes it comes late, after a good lunch. Viewed, tried on and bought. One night, when Mary and Alexander worked together in the boutique, there came a man who said that the owner has no right to force them to work for so long. This man offered his services in finding a job better and refused to believe that the owners – they do.

The efforts were not in vain. To store began to drive up to the “Mercedes”. The clothes “from Quantum”brakosochetalis George Harrison and Pattie Boyd model. After promotion”Bazaar” a small area of ​​London – Chelsea – it has become a center of fashion. He became a household name for the way of life and style of dress, not a geographical name. A typical girl from Chelsea has become a subject for imitation of the rest of London.

During the day she served coffee in filthy jeans and a shaggy head. In the evening, overnight, turned into dudes. Now, any girl from High Street could look fashionable. This “fashion” could be discussed, and extravagant, but it looked completely alive. And most important: it is like to try to do something new.

“Bazarnyi” Style

At the heart of the new style of lying miniskirt. It was invented by Andre Kurrezha and John Bates, who with his idea. “Come early, before dawn.”But a little later, Mary got into the most”bull’s eye”. Swinging London youth appreciated the new type of clothes, which resulted in a change in the whole wardrobe. Examples show itself Mary Quant. Perhaps it was the only time in history when the youth fashion created by young. Yet only because before the youth fashion did not exist.

Mini skirt completely changed the image of women. Women elected mini, she decides their fate, not hiding behind diamonds bought with the money of the father or husband. Mini dictated a new demeanor and a new gait. According to Quantum, it is they, rather than the breast or ankle has now been sent sexual attention.

Despite the fact that the small woman seemed more accessible, the availability was imaginary. This woman herself set boundaries and itself allowed them to break.

To miniskirt relied sweater slinky “noodles”, black tights, black patent leather shoes or – perepletike how to tap dance. In cold weather, the mini-skirt complemented maxi-coats and high boots with laces.

have been proposed sleeveless dress, tunic, under which wore a sweater dress apron, breeches, shorts, PVC raincoat. There were flesh-colored tights and colorful socks.

To all this was added a magnificent Vidal Sassoon. which has not always been a shampoo. In his youth he was alive in the flesh, women’s designer haircuts, geometric and asymmetric. For Mary, he invented the “bob”, which is the best suited to her style.

There was, indeed, the fashion for the young and for any money, “cling” to it was impossible. Mini Skirt, opening women’s knees gave out real age better than neck or hands. It was not just a style of dress, it was the style and pace of life, which could withstand only a young body. No wonder even fashion shows Mary spent in a mad rhythm of jazz.

One of his first fashion show invitations Mary received from David Morgan, organizer of foreign shows. In hindsight, she realized Morgan asked her to set off the decency and chic already well-known masters. But she did not care. Such neighborhood itself puts it on par with the masters.

Even at the London airport, Mary saw a magnificent mannequins with wigs and mink coats. Her own dresses, packed in a box from under the “Mars”and”Milky Wei,”waiting in the wings. And wait – in the”Palace Hotel” St Moritz.

Maestro at the request of Mary “cut” jazz, and unhurried pace of a defile replaced escape velocity. Girls do not have time to run to the dressing room and changed clothes because right at the door in the corridor rooms. They carried one after another in his crease in flannel dresses above the knee, in tunics, worn over a red sweater in colored stockings and the shoes. As the curtain appeared the most famous fashion model. It was a huge Cossack cap with white fox, white leather coat, trimmed with the same fur and white above the knee boots.

careless gesture she threw off the coat, threw his cap, but it turned out that in great haste she forgot to wear underwear. Curtain.

None of chewing the tables of people did not know that was possible. Before them at breakneck speed flashed a new life, they fell into the vortex of her and could not get out already. After the show, no one disagreed, danced to jazz up half past four in the morning.

The next two days Mary lain with a high temperature in the room of your luxury hotel. She did not have any money, but a few suitcases of clothes and accessories. On the third day she put on her best dress and went to the rink. Everything was in trousers and silk stockings. And these all at once realized how hopeless they are behind the fashion.

Back in London, Mary began to develop a new collection – for mature women who want to look like teenagers. The task was not simple: without the slightest hint of a smile I had to imagine a woman precocious girl. Girls who can ride on the subway, and maybe with a private chauffeur to the “Bentley”.

The thing itself is all about

One thing between Mary and Alexander Plunket combined legal marriage. But it was a relationship, first of all, business partners. Gone are the days of romance when they avidly read the “advanced” of the book, Alexander portrayed a tough guy, and Mary was terrified of losing innocence. The whole life now revolves around work, conversations were only about one thing – fashion. Once initially dreamed about children, it turned out that at first it is necessary to create at least 22 collections of clothes, which became their real children.

It’s the recognition. “Sunday Times”has awarded Mary a prize”For the fashion.” p>




TV, p>











But that’s another story.

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